Producing two-piece sticks (where the handle is fashioned seperatly from the shank ) allows more room for experimentation. As long as the shank is nicely straightened, the handle can be worked alone to produce the best effect before actually choosing which wooden handle best suits the shank. Granted there is more work involved in 'two-piece' sticks but the combinations are endless and worth the effort.
Whichever type of stick I aim to produce the basic method is generally the same however.
The handle /grip is worked down to a rough shape by means of rasps until I am happy with the basic design. Sometimes I will deliberately leave the under-bark on to produce a more rustic effect and then I move on to the finer work.
Sanding, using a rough grade paper takes the wood down further until the grain and style are to my satisfaction. From then on it's a matter of using increasingly finer grade paper to produce the final finish.
At this stage I have to decide whether or not to stain or colour the exosed wood. Generally I prefer to keep the natural look and grain of the particular piece though sometimes I lightly stain the wood using tannins (prepared from bark well in advance) or even try 'scorching' the wood for an antique effect. There are many tricks you can use to enhance the wood but often as not the original finish is the best.
The working end (tip) of the shank is then fashioned to take the correct size ferrule before continuing.
Once happy with the result then the next decision is to either treat the wood naturally with oils and wax or to apply varnishes for increased durability. Both have their advantages - natural oils (teak or linseed being my favourites) and good quality wax give a softer and semi-matt effect which is very pleasing to the eye. This works especially well on fruit woods - apple, pear, plum etc but does have the disadvantage of having to be re-applied at regular intervals to ensure that the wood remains waterproofed. I find that not too many people are too keen to do this unfortunately so invariably I use the latter technique of varnishing.
I've tried many different varnishes over the years but settled on a good quality high-gloss yacht varnish. After all, if it's good enough for boats it's got to be good enough for walking sticks!
The trick here is to build up the layers of varnish gradually, starting with a diluted coat to seal the wood (using white spirit..) then to gently rub the finish back with fine grade steel wool before applying the next coat. After a while you end up with a diamond hard and durable finish - just what you need for protecting your favourite stick! It is vitally important that the wood is well seasoned before using this method. Any moisture left in the wood may lead to rot. Thankfully I have never encountered this problem as I always season the wood really well.
Once the final coat is bone dry I then fit a brass ferrule to the tip and stamp the stick with it's own individual ID number. It helps me keep a track on each one and the new owner will be able to use it for identification if it gets lost! Hopefully that will never happen!
Well, that's it in a nutshell. Obviously there is a lot more to it than the little I have told you but at least it gives you an idea of how the basic sticks are produced. When it comes to the more complex things such as Shepherds crooks and two-piece stick construction,there is a lot more to it and certainly a lot more time spent at the workbench! Whatever type of stick I am working on however, I like to think the same care and attention goes into every single one.
If you would like to have a go at stickmaking then may I suggest a stunning little book by two masters of the craft.It's entitled 'The Stickmaking Handbook' by Andrew Jones and Clive George. and should be available on loan from most libraries. To purchase a copy (around £9 I think?) you could try your local bookshop or buy it online at Amazon.
However, if you just want to purchase a stick ready made there are many outlets, e-bay being the favourite (where I auction my own sticks) or stores dealing in country pursuits etc. Do beware though of some inferior quality sticks produced in totally unacceptable woods and usually made abroad.
I hope this 'blog' has been helpul and informative. I do plan to add to it every now and then with other bits of information about the craft of Stickmaking, so please do re-visit occasionally.
All the very best from
Shinwacker
No comments:
Post a Comment